Things to Do in Nauru in November

November's calmer morning seas make this the month for reef access - the bay's outer reef sits just 50 m (164 ft) from shore and the visibility stretches to 20 m (66 ft) on good days. The locals freedive here for reef fish, and you can follow their lead through coral gardens where parrotfish the size of housecats graze in water warm enough that you won't need a wetsuit.

The 19 km (12 mile) coastal road around Nauru is best tackled in November's morning temperatures - start at 6 AM when the phosphate trucks are still parked and you have the road to yourself. You'll pass everything from WWII Japanese bunkers to the new phosphate processing plant, all within earshot of waves that are louder than the occasional motorbike.

This landlocked lagoon is Nauru's only freshwater spot - November rains top it up and the water temperature matches the air at 28°C (82°F). The surrounding pandanus trees drop fruit that ferment in the water, giving it a slightly sweet smell that locals swear helps with jellyfish stings.

November's clearer skies make the lunar landscape of the phosphate interior visible - the contrast between the white phosphate cliffs and the deep blue ocean creates the kind of otherworldly views that remind you Nauru is essentially a coral cap sitting on phosphate rock. The active mining areas are closed. But the abandoned cantilevers and rusting equipment tell the story of an island that exported 80% of itself.

The locals' traditional method involves handlines dropped from the reef edge at sunset, and November's longer evenings mean you can fish until 7 PM. The catch varies from parrotfish to small reef sharks, and anything you land can be cooked at the Bay Restaurant - they'll clean and grill your fish for the price of a side dish.